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In the months of July and August, when monsoon showers are abundant across the western coastline, olmi mushrooms sprout across the wild forests in the state of Goa. Considered rare due to their inability to be cultivated for commercial purposes (among other legal implications), the wild fungi variety is also found growing on termite hills and yield a limited amount during each seasonal cycle. Consumed as a replacement for meat during the non-fishing months, the mushrooms make their way into a host of delicacies that are associated with the local palate.
Alambi Randai
Image Credits: Wikimedia Commons
What is best described as a curry of wild mushrooms, the randai is a Gaud Saraswat Brahmin (GSB) special delicacy that is cooked in a tamarind-red chilli base enriched with grated coconut. Muddy olmi or alami are first soaked in water to rid them of dirt before being chopped and simmered in a semi-thickened gravy and best savoured with rice or tandal bhakris. The flavours of the curry are similar in profile to other GSB specialties for want of sharing a similar spice base as well as mild fieriness of flavour.
Olmi Rava Fry
When Goans refrain from consuming fish during the monsoon months, vegetables like raw banana or elephant yam are commonly coated in semolina before being pan-fried as a plant-based replacement. However, due to the limited time span of availability of the wild mushrooms, they take centrestage in this straightforward preparation which involves a handful of spices and semolina coating the olmi before they are fried briefly for a chewy-crisp accompaniment to simple meals.
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Almyache Sukke
Similar to a Goan-style preparation of pork or chicken chilli fry, the vegetarian spin on the chakna delicacy uses seasonal olmi mushrooms for a dry, stir fried snack. Basic seasonings and aromatics are punctuated with the addition of chicken masala to boost its meaty flavour - with the occasional addition of sliced onions or bacon for texture. The sukke is also an excellent meal when paired with toasted bread and a glass of beer.
Alambe Bibbeanche Xacuti
Image Credits: IGA Marketplace
The herb-forward xacuti which is most commonly associated with chicken or pork includes a meat-free version that uses olmi mushrooms as its key ingredient. What also makes the mushroom xacuti preparation special is the inclusion of tender cashews as well as the use of Canacona chillies and nutmeg. This quintessential Goan preparation is best eaten with bread or rice, as a way to highlight the use of robust, freshly ground spices.
Olmi Solantulem
Similar to the sukke, the solantulem utilises a handful of ingredients - sliced onions, crushed red chillies and garlic; only difference being the consistency is slightly gravy-like. Best eaten with rice, the flavours of the solantulem are predominantly sweet with a hint of spice from the chillies. Made with little to no dry spices, the preparation relies on fresh ingredients for the olmi to absorb flavour while also keeping its texture intact.
